Fashion notes: debut designs from Lia Cowan, Dior’s dreamy new retailer, and the ready begins for hero items

The introduction of a new award for aspiring fashion designers is welcome. Congratulations to Lia Cowan, winner of the first Longines Irish Champions Young Designer Award. The Dublin native studied sculpture at NCAD before earning a fashion qualification in Sallynoggin, and you can surely learn those sculpting skills in her love of manipulating and transforming fabrics.

ia uses quite a mix, from taffeta to cotton to silk dupion, like in the skirt below, which costs 350 euros. She explains how, as an artist and designer, she draws on her Jewish and Irish heritage and is inspired by it, “which has opened a portal in which threads of inspiration from folklore and mysticism are spun”.

Your “Forever Beyond the Limits of the World” Collection includes unique items.

What struck me in particular about this collection was its use of the yo-yo technique, which has its roots in Japan. Lia discovered it in a book about fabric manipulation, and it’s like a series of raised circles of fabric that she thinks resembles quilting.

The aim of the young designer is “to create carefully thought out and lovingly handcrafted works of art – heirlooms that can be passed on from one generation to the next”.

@i_am_liac; liacowandesign@gmail.com

Dior boutique arrives in town

Next week, the highly anticipated Dior boutique opens at Brown Thomas Dublin, the latest luxury designer to open on the ground floor of the Grafton Street store this season.

Here you will find the emblematic accessories from Dior, in particular scarves, belts and glasses from the “Cruise” collection 2022, designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri.

I suspect bag fans will be very interested, especially since this couture house’s iconic “Saddle” bag has been such a hit lately.

The Dior ‘Caro’ lambskin bag awaits you in the new boutique. This model is a tribute to Christian Dior’s sister Catherine, who was affectionately called “Caro” and a classic black. The chain links take up the “CD” signature, which reflects the clasp, and the “Caro” costs € 3,900.

The Cannage motif is inspired by the upholstery on the Napoleon III chairs that Christian Dior used in his first exhibitions in Paris. It is also very easy to recognize on the ‘Lady Dior’ bag designed by Gianfranco Ferré for Princess Diana.

In the entire range of handbags and accessories, I have a great preference for the Dior house motif “Oblique” designed by Marc Bohan.

Anyone who’s watched designer handbag sales before and during the lockdown can wholeheartedly expect a new zeal to be unleashed especially in the run-up to Christmas, and I suspect Dior will receive much of that love.

I base this forecast on the number of serious fashionistas who have come to Paris and London to see the exhibition. Christian Dior: designer of dreams.

The pioneering work of the couturier, his motifs and his legacy are of deep interest, which Chiuri cleverly reinterprets time and again.

The new boutique offers a selection of silk twill scarves from € 285, sunglasses from € 330, jewelry from € 350 for the embroidered bracelets by J’Adior and other jewelry creations by Victoire de Castellane, including the Rose des Vents collection with prices from € 1,000.

Cashmere indulgence

The mere mention of cashmere coated hot water bottles immediately caught my attention and I was in a flash at the Irish Design Shop on Drury Street to check them out.

The € 78 miniature hot water bottles are made by Ekotree im Burren from 100 pieces of hand-spun cashmere in delicious autumnal berry tones.
Jaffa orange and mint as well as beige and gray.

Check out the new Irish Vernacular 2022 calendar (€ 30) in the shop, a collaboration with Kenmare photographer Norman McCloskey. It features images of native architecture in beautiful natural landscapes and features 12 unique frame-ready prints, and the cover photo features copper foil details. irishdesignshop.com

Dates and days

Waiting lists for hero Christmas gifts are popping up everywhere. I’ve added myself to notification lists for concert tickets, restaurants, and pre-order services. I know it’s only mid-October, but as supply chains get active it’s a new retail reality.

There has been a lot of talk this week about the first-ever Brown Thomas luxury beauty advent calendar. It landed two days ago and costs € 295 while the content is estimated at € 690. There was a waiting list for the limited edition set, but it’s definitely worth checking in store for availability. Never ignore giftedness.

Give style-savvy housewarming items | Information

Bread and salt. Wine. A broom or sack of flour. Honey, pineapples and even bluebirds – a symbol of good luck – have been given to people moving into new homes over the centuries.

Fall is a busy time to move, and many people have been doing so lately due to the changes in work, school, and personal life caused by the pandemic.

So, if you’re looking for modern housewarming favors to go with (or in place of) the traditional one, we’ve got some interior designer suggestions for new renters and new owners alike.

AT THE MAIN ENTRANCE

Baylee Floyd, an Orlando, Florida-based designer with Decorist online platform, suggests giving your friends a welcome mat. “An entrance mat is always a great gift – I get custom monogrammed mats so they really feel at home,” she says.

Etsy.com and others offer customizable mats, or you can purchase Grandin Road, Frontgate and Birch Lane from initialed Coco mat designs.

The Elysia Home Letterfolk doormat comes with a bag of 75 penny hexagonal tiles so the new tenant or owner can create their own welcome message.

Leia T. Ward, founder of LTW Design in New Canaan, Connecticut, likes the idea of ​​adding a little connectivity.

“An Alexa or Echo (can) appear randomly,” she says, “but it’s great for those extra spaces that homeowners don’t typically buy smart speakers for, like a patio, garage, home office, or bathroom.”

Or how about a house key locator?

“A keychain GPS finder is a great opening gift,” says Ward. “It seems random and unimportant until you actually need it.”

If you already have the finder, you can update the keychain yourself by getting one monogrammed. Mark & ​​Graham offers leather tassels in kelly green, black, red or blush.

If the newly moved are looking for a boho decor vibe, consider Natural Life’s hand-painted wooden flower hooks, which can be placed next to the door, on a porch wall, or really anywhere.

FOR THE WALLS

Seattle-based designer Elizabeth Herrera suggests a bespoke home portrait. “Upload a special photo www.minted.comand they do a letterpress or a standard printed drawing, ”she says. You can choose the frame type, mat and size when ordering.

If the recipients have moved to Chicago, New York City, San Francisco or Texas, the designers at Minted have created cool toilet paper for each of these cities, which are presented in framed notice boards perfect for kitchens or home offices.

Chatbooks, which you can connect your Instagram or camera profile to to create photo books, prints, or cards, also have a wall tile option. Have the pictures printed on square canvas frames with moveable adhesive backing; perfect for tenants.

Whispart on Etsy will create a personalized heart or house shaped map of the new excavations; Add as much detail as you want, download and frame it.

City dwellers may love a soft, plush pillow in the shape of a tropical leaf or a succulent plant from Green Philosophy Co; They partnered with nonprofit Trees for the Future to have pillow and throw sales support planting initiatives around the world.

Another eco-friendly idea: The Polished Jar offers reusable bottles for personal and household products such as soaps, lotions, etc. Choose plastic or glass and you can further customize with a chic metallic or matt black pump and a waterproof label. Available individually or in bundles that contain a stylish tray.

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Bring a pleasant scent into your new home with the Manor House Weekend soy-based candle collection from Otherland. The fall version has notes of smoky maple, cardamom, toasted nuts, pear and apple.

The New Home candle from Homesick, a mixture of jasmine, cedar wood, linden and sandalwood, can be personalized with a personal message on the glass label.

If you know your recipients well enough to buy them a gift that they’ll visit every month, a subscription box can be good. There are many options and they can take the guesswork out of decorating.

“I love giving friends with a new home a monthly subscription box for Christmas decorations,” says Floyd. “Because it’s either their first home and they don’t have a lot of decorations, or they just don’t have time to decorate for the holidays after they’ve just moved in.”

Boise, Idaho, designer Mikayla Keating had a suggestion for those who love flowers and plants in houses or apartments.

“Fresh flowers always make a new home look inviting and put together,” she says. At Bloomsy Box, a bouquet is sourced from fair trade farms, wrapped in environmentally friendly paper and shipped every month. Subscription options include pet-safe bouquets and mixed arrangements, as well as one inspired by the New York Botanical Garden; Part of the turnover supports the garden’s work in the fields of plant science and nature conservation.

For people who want simple, low-maintenance plants, The Sill has several subscription options.

Are the new residents art lovers but don’t have one?

“A great way for your friends to decorate their home is with an art subscription,” says Keating. “This is ideal if you are unsure of your style or if you have difficulty choosing a work of art yourself.”

With a gift card, they can sign up for Art Crate, complete the style quiz, and an in-house curator will help them choose an art print from an indie artist. You choose the size and format and can cancel at any time if your walls are satisfied.

Tabletop items, wall art and throw pillows are among the possible goodies in one of the seasonally curated boxes from Decocrated.

Knife blocks and cheese platters are classic housewarming gifts. If you’d like to make it even better, consider Crate & Barrel’s monogrammed mango wood, marble, and inlaid brass serving board as an initial. The dealer also offers the Schmidt Brothers Cutlery table and wall knife holders made of warm acacia wood.

Or check out Material Kitchen’s reBoards, chopping boards made from recycled plastic and sugar cane that come in many beautiful colors.

The Light and Shadow blenders of the limited Artisan series from KitchenAid have the “wow” factor; The base is a creamy milkshake shade and the bowl is matte black textured with a rivet design that will encourage your recipients to display it in the front and center of the kitchen counter.

This milky shade is also offered on a sleek but powerful semi-automatic espresso machine, blender, and coffee grinder from KitchenAid.

Mark & ​​Graham has several chic serving trays, pitchers, and throw blankets that can be personalized in a variety of fonts.

The New Jersey-based gift shop Wildwood House offers finely carved maple, cherry, or walnut bottle stoppers made in Maine by Captain John Coppola, who learned wood turning from the father of the shop’s co-owner. Here, too, eye-catching wicker baskets are a great eye-catcher in every room. Purchases support the baskets craftsmen in the growing region of Bolgatanga in northern Ghana.

Or think of chic backyard picnic items, like a personalized rattan bag, a wine and cheese backpack, a steel or copper growler, acrylic glasses, and linen napkins, all of which come with monograms.

TikTok including ‘presents’ characteristic in remark part to donate cash to creators

TikTok introduces its “Gifts” feature to annotate sections of some creators’ videos so that users can donate money to their favorite creators.

As the TikTok video sharing app continues to grow in popularity around the world, new stars are popping up regularly, some of which are recognized as celebrities in their own right.

People like Addison Rae and Charli D’Amelio have made great career moves beyond the platform, but the start of their careers can all be traced back to it Tick ​​tock.

Of course, there are also plenty of smaller developers in the app who often find the app workable Source of income.

Now it seems to be a lot easier for fans to support their favorite creators as the platform is testing the “gifts” feature in the comment sections of some videos.

@noahglenncarter(@jena) this is a game changer ##to you ## tiktokdown♬ Spongebob – Dante9k

“Gifts” were originally only available in live streams, so users could pay real money to buy coins which could then be used to buy “gifts” for people in the form of colorful icons. These gifts come with different costs, and at some point creators can redeem them and receive real money.

Users have now noticed that the gift feature is being added to some videos as a bar at the top of the comment areas, making it easier than ever for people to donate.

By opening the Top Gifts tab and clicking Top Up, users can spend real money to buy coins, after which they can choose from a range of Classic and Premium gifts. Coins currently cost £ 0.49 for £ 40, but prices vary from currency to currency.

So far it is not clear whether this function will be rolled out for every user or only for verified creators. Many will no doubt be delighted to see the feature expanded in the app as it provides an easy way for users to support growing YouTubers.

A Primer on Items and Enterprise Leisure | Thomas Fox

If one pondered the provision of gifts and business entertainment to foreign government officials, it would be reasonable to conclude that after 40 years of FCPA, companies would be able to comply with their regulations regarding gifts and business entertainment. However, there have been some notable FCPA enforcement actions in this area.

The 2020 FCPA Resource Guide clarified that the FCPA does not prohibit gifts and entertainment. In fact, it has been said, “A small gift, or a token of appreciation or gratitude, is often an appropriate way for business people to show respect for one another. Some signs of appropriate gift giving are when the gift is given openly and transparently, properly recorded in the giver’s books and records, provided only for appreciation or gratitude, and permitted under local law. Face value items such as taxi rides, reasonable meals and entertainment, or company promotional items are unlikely to inappropriately affect an officer and are therefore not readily items to lead to enforcement actions by the DOJ or SEC. “

What does the FCPA say? While the FCPA prohibits the payment of money or valuables to foreign officials in order to get or keep business, it does allow the same officials to incur certain costs. There is no de minimis provision. Presenting a gift or business entertainment expense may constitute a breach of the FCPA when it is done with the corrupt intent of getting or keeping business. Under the FCPA, 15 USC Section 78dd-1 (c) (2) (A) – (B), the following affirmative defense exists in relation to the payment of expenses:

[it] should be an affirmative defense [that] The payment, gift, offer, or promise of any item of value that was made was a fair and bona fide expense, such as an expense. B. Travel and accommodation expenses incurred by a foreign official, party, party official or candidate or on behalf of a foreign official in direct connection with … the promotion, demonstration or explanation of products or services; or … the execution or performance of a contract with a foreign government or agency thereof.

As with most matters within the FCPA, there is little direct evidence of what behavior may go beyond the limit set out above. Of course, there’s always the gut test, which simply measures, “If it feels wrong in your gut, it’s probably wrong.” It is a good thing to keep this in mind under all circumstances.

Opinions published. Somewhat surprising is that there have been no current DOJ opinion releases in the last 10 years addressing the values ​​for gifts and business entertainment under the FCPA. However, there are three opinion releases from the early 1980s that can provide some pointers to current practitioners.

in the Comment Release 82-01The DOJ approved the donation of cheese samples to Mexican government officials by the Missouri State Department of Agriculture to promote the state of Missouri’s agricultural products. However, the value of the cheese to be submitted was not included in the opinion. in the Comment Release 81-02The DOJ approved a gift of its packaged beef products from Iowa Beef Packers, Inc. to officials at the Soviet Department of Foreign Affairs. The total value of all samples presented was estimated to be less than $ 2,000, and Iowa Beef Packers, Inc. stated that individual sample packages would not exceed $ 250 in value.

The final opinion on gifts is this Comment Release 81-01. In this press release, Bechtel Group Inc. (Bechtel) applied for permission to use the SGV Group (SGV), a multinational organization headquartered in the Republic of the Philippines, made up of separate member companies in ten Asian countries and Saudi Arabia, the Carry out tests. Business consulting, project management and tax advice. The SGV wanted to ask for business on behalf of Bechtel, who had proposed reimbursing the SGV for the gift costs incurred in this business promotion. Regarding the reimbursement of gift costs by Bechtel to SGV, the DOJ stated:

Expenses for gifts or material items of any kind that are incurred without the prior written consent of Bechtel will only be reimbursed if such expenses are permitted under local law. The ceremonial value of the object exceeds its intrinsic value. The cost of the gift will not exceed $ 500 per person and the cost is in accordance with legitimate and generally accepted local custom for such expenses by private businessmen in the country.

Gifts and Business Entertainment Policies and Procedures. Based on the FCPA language and relevant opinion releases, and considering inflation over the past 30 years, it seems reasonable for a company to be able to provide gifts up to a value of $ 500. The following are the guidelines that the submissions would suggest for inclusion in a compliance guideline for gifts to government officials:

  • The gift should be given as a token of appreciation, courtesy, or in return for hospitality.
  • The gift should have a face value, but in no case more than $ 500.
  • No cash gifts.
  • The gift is permitted under both local law and employer / government agency guidelines.
  • The gift should be of a value that is customary in the country in question and appropriate for the occasion.
  • The gift should be for official rather than personal use.
  • The gift should showcase the company’s products or include the company logo.
  • The gift should be presented openly and completely transparently.
  • The cost of the gift should be properly recorded in the company’s books and records.

Business entertainment by government officials. Based on the FCPA language (there are no comments on this point) there is no threshold at which a company can set a value for business entertainment. However, I believe there are clear guidelines that should be included in your corporate spending policy that should include:

  • There must be a fair balance for real business entertainment during an official business trip.
  • All business upkeep costs must be reasonable.
  • The cost of business maintenance must be permitted under (1) local laws and (2) customer guidelines.
  • Business maintenance costs must be in accordance with local custom and practice.
  • Business entertainment costs must avoid the appearance of inappropriateness.
  • Business maintenance costs must be supported by appropriate records and properly recorded in the company’s books and records.

Including these concepts in a compliance policy is a good first step in preventing potential violations from occurring. However, it must be emphasized that this is only a first step. There must be procedures in place to implement these guidelines. At a minimum, you must obtain a business justification from the company representative in order to provide the gift or business entertainment. Next, it should be reviewed and approved by a frontline compliance expert. Depending on the volume and type of request, a CCO approval may then be required. Finally, if there is a COC, it should go to this committee for a final review to make sure everything is in order.

These guidelines must be accompanied by active training of all employees, not only on a company’s compliance policies, but also on the corporate and individual consequences that may arise if the FCPA violates gifts and business entertainment becomes. Finally, it is imperative that all such gifts and business conversations are properly recorded, as required by the book and record component of the FCPA.

And as always, don’t forget the bowel test.

[View source.]

Met Opera’s income drops, breaks even with presents, borrowing | Leisure

NEW YORK (AP) – Metropolitan Opera’s operating income declined $ 25 million to $ 120 million for the fiscal year ended July 31. This season has been shortened due to the novel coronavirus pandemic. However, the company avoided operating losses through fundraising and borrowing.

The Met announced Thursday that it had a $ 130 million loss from operations – after a loss of $ 154 million in the fiscal year that ended July 31, 2019.

Contributions and rebates, including assets released from restrictions net of fundraising costs, totaled $ 130 million to break even. Post-spend fundraising fell from $ 153 million the previous season when the Met ended with an operating loss of $ 1.1 million.

“Our cash position was about $ 10 million less than it was at the beginning of the fiscal year. We moved from a $ 46 million line of credit to a $ 57 million line of credit. This is important to us, ”said Peter Gelb, General Manager of Met, on Thursday. “The good news is we managed to maintain the best relationship with our donors and audiences through our nightly streams of our pay-per-view concerts for nearly a year with no performances.”

Yellow said there have been 33,000 new donors since the pandemic began.

The pandemic caused the Met to halt its 2019-20 season on March 12, forcing the cancellation of the last 58 of 217 originally scheduled performances as well as its entire 2020-21 season, wiping out 218 performances of 23 operas, bringing the total the rejections rose to 276. The orchestra’s international tour for June 2021 has also been canceled.

The Met cut some administrative staff and stopped paying its union employees during the pandemic, despite continuing to have health benefits for the orchestra and choir.

It has used non-union musicians for its streamed concerts from Europe and angered the association of its orchestra, the local 802 of the American Federation of Musicians. The Met locked out its stage workers in Local One of the International Alliance of Theatrical Stage Employees last month because it was unable to negotiate wage cuts during the pandemic. Yellow said the Met is looking into using outside labor to begin building sets for next season’s new productions.

Yellow also wants to resume contracts with Local 802 and conclude contracts with the American Guild of Musical Artists, which represents their singers and their choir, which will expire in summer 2022.

“This is an expression of the understandable frustration, fear and anger our musicians have because they haven’t been paid for so many months, but I don’t think that’s justified,” said Gelb. “When you read this kind of criticism from people, you think that we get the wrong impression that we have hired a substitute or choir orchestra, which it certainly isn’t. We hired a few musicians for these pay-per-view events in Europe to make it easier for the audience to experience vocal evenings that are not orchestral concerts. From a practical point of view and under other union points of view, there was no way we could have used Met musicians. “

The Met is hoping for federal aid. Yellow said the money would be used to fund bridge payments to union workers until benefits resume. He does not intend to cut back on future repertoire, saying the breath of offerings is necessary to boost attendance and income.

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